Who would make a coffee shop in ruins?
Someone had left a bicycle leaning against the roadside post to go for a ‘quick stop’. Except – the coat of rust had started to claim the bike; wheelrims grow into the soil – it wasn’t a quick stop. Eco travel Africa springs up quite the myriad of surprises! The signpost indicates Die Murasie to my left. I look at the crumbled stonewall of what once was a farmhouse, and getting curious – who would make a coffee shop in ruins?
The section of the farmhouse (what is left from the building) did not have a sign ‘Enter at your own risk’, but daily specials written with chalk on the ‘blueboard’ next to a pot of blooming flowers in shades of purple and yellow. We weren’t quite sure if we should knock on the door – it really felt like entering someone’s home. But stepping inside, it looked like we had entered back in time – sunshine through the windows framed in thick stonewalls, cast light into the cosy room with mix and match of tables and chairs, rosy wall decors, tea sets, antiques and rag-dolls and console table with home bakes.
Lottie, the owner was busy in the kitchen preparing fresh lamb pies and bobotie, which Johan ordered for lunch. But I was eyeing the Lemon Meringue pie on the console table that looked too tempting and opted to swop my lunch for it. Glad I did, as I can not remember when I last had a Lemon Meringue like that – tangy, not too sweet and meringue layer generously equal size to the filling.
We could not leave without buying a few bottles of home-made preserves from the shop and a knitted cutest green toy-bunny that was yearning to come with us.
I thought that the coffee shop interior had surprised me enough until I visited ‘The Ladies’ – the visit was like an excursion and I just had to go back there with my camera (Don’t laugh, check it out yourself 🙂
Hmm … change of subject from eco travel Africa. We got to chat with the farm owners Jannie and Lottie Van Wyk whos actual farm home Wolwepoort is before Skilpad Wildflower Nature Reserve entrance. This old ‘Die Murasie’ farmhouse had been transformed into coffee shop five years ago by Lottie and her friend, but it is welcoming guests only during the flower season. I just love the idea – giving life back to the forgotten and warned; the initiative and welcoming friendliness in this cosy old farmhouse ruins.
On your next trip to Namaqualand for flowers, you will find ‘Die Murasie’ on the way to Skilpad Wildflower Nature Reserve, Kamieskroon, Northern Cape, South Africa. Eco travel Africa
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Central Kalahari Game Reserve (CKGR), Botswana
9-day Eco Safaris Trip planner:
Central Kalahari Google Map link here.
From Johannesburg,
DAY 1 – Khama Rhino Sanctuary (7hour drive from JHB) Offers camping and self-catering chalets. Camping sites have good ablution facilities. *If you arrive early enough, take a drive around the park where you can have a good chance for rhino sightings on eco safaris.
DAY 2 and 3 – Passarge Campsite, Campsite no2. An Adequate shade under the trees and camp overlooking the distant open plane. Basic reed shower and ablution. There are 3 campsites.
DAY 4 and 5 – Piper Pan, Campsite no1. Campsites well apart for privacy. Piper no 1 where we stayed was close to the Pan and waterhole, it was also larger than No 2. In true eco safaris style, Ablution is though little further away from the camping place. (No 2 is more secluded and further away from the water-hole) The waterhole had a constant procession of birds and animals.
DAY 6 and 7 – Sunday Pan, Campsite no 3. A shady tree in the middle of the campsite, Ablutions is close by. Also a great view over the pan for perfect sunset views.
DAY 8 – On our way back we stayed over Khumaga Campsite on the Boteti river, Makgadikgadi and Nxai Pan National Park.
DAY 9 – Kwa Nokeng Lodge just before Martins Drift border post (Botswana side). / or on South Africa’s side has numerous places to stay.
Central Kalahari, Botswana
Eco Safaris Notes and travel tips:
• Stock up at Letlhakane. Fill up with Petrol and Diesel @ Rakops it is the last stop for fuel and stock-up for basic supplies.
• Just after Rakops look out for the road turning left to Matswere Gate of CKGR.
• Take your own water with you to last during your stay as there are no water facilities. I would not recommend leaving the filling of the water tanks in Rakops as the water is precious in that area for the local community. (It was heartbreaking to witness how thirsty donkeys were chased away from the fresh water points). Fill up water tanks rather in Letlhakane.
• Also, carry all your firewood and charcoal with you to CK as there is no place to stock up. Keep in mind it’s illegal to collect firewood in the park because trees and fallen branches are nature’s property..
• Letiahau and Lekhubu do not have any ablution facilities.
• Be waste-wise as you need to carry and take back all your disposables. The rule, that not only Eco safaris travellers know, ‘do not leave your trash behind’ applies.
• The same cardinal rule applies for your leftover food, do not bury it, do not leave it under the bush for animals/birds, – It will just cause unwanted problems so please take the leftovers with you. ”If you love me, don’t feed me” article HERE.
Camping in Central Kalahari
• After your stay please remember to pick up all your litter that might have accidentally fallen to the ground (bottle caps, cable ties, cigaret buts etc.) it’s never pleasant to clean up the mess that other eco safaris travelers may have left behind.
• Please, also bury your fire ash properly and do not leave it for next visitors as campsites are not serviced and we all go there for a pleasurable experience.
• On the exit, at Matswere gate you will find a big container where to dispose of all your trash after your visit, or if you were a recycle wise, you would take it with all the way home.
• We have been in Central Kalahari in October as well as April, both were excellent times, warm to hot days, during both eco safaris we had some rain as well. Winter time is good but nights can be unexpectedly cold. Try to avoid mid-summer season as it can get really hot and with the rain, the driving will be slip-sliding on muddy roads. Real chance of getting seriously stuck.
CK Bookings: Best to book through Bigfoot Tours (campsites: Piper Pan, Letiahau, Lekhubu, Kukama, Sunday Pan, Passarge Valley and Motopi.
Mud driving in Central Kalahari
Mabuasehube Transfrontier Park in Botswana is one of my favourite places for Eco travel Africa.
On the road again.
Private unfenced camps, unexpected visitors in the form of lion or hyena, blessed peace and quiet makes any eco travel Africa trip to Mabua a memorable experience.
We decided to stay in one camp for the duration of our trip. The only camp available for a lengthy stay was Mpaya Reserve Camp. My travel companions had their doubts, but I was adamant.
One tree, no water, no facilities what so ever.
Water for our shower was collected each day at Scout Camp nearby. We managed to shower with less than 25 litres of water a day between the five of us. By standing in a bowl to catch the water, we could have a luxurious hot bush shower courtesy of Johan’s Kariba ingenious eco travel Africa shower.
To compensate for the lack of shade trees, Dennis erected his “African Tree” What an amazing invention. It allows a free flow of air and even rustles like a tree as the wind blows through it.
These are Eco travel Africa do’s and dont’s for responsible camping.
After setting up our camp our first duty was to collect bits of toilet paper that carpeted the campsite. Obviously very few visitors to Mpaya Reserve Camp took the trouble to research pooping in the bush! (By the way here are some excellent videos on YouTube about the subject.) Every morning Dennis dug a fresh toilet pit at the camp perimeter. The used toilet paper was collected in a bag, which we disposed of by burning.
Despite some negative comments on the internet, I realized that the Reserve Camp has one of the better views over the pan. Our bed in the trailer looked out directly over the Mpaya waterhole. From there we enjoyed an early morning lie-in while still observing the comings and goings at the waterhole.
Meeting unexpected visitors is why we travel to places like Mabuasehube.
The waterhole is about 500 meters from our campsite. Whenever we spotted something interesting, we jumped in the Landy and within minutes had a closeup look at lion, hyena, springbok and any variety of birds.
We left our camp only to fetch water and had one game drive to Letsoalaga pan. On our return from Letsoalaga, our fellow campers told us that a lioness walked right past the camp while we were gone.
We saw the Brownie every day, and on one occasion he visited while we were having supper. Very calmly he walked into our camp, gave us a look as if saying “What are you doing here” and ambled off into the night.
The entire night we could hear the lions in and around our campsite
During the day we were visited by the small creatures of Mpaya. Hornbills, crows, white-tailed and slender mongoose and red-billed spurfowl, were regular visitors on this unforgettable eco travel Africa experience. The hornbills made a real nuisance of themselves, even grabbing food off our plates. Obviously, they associate humans with a free lunch.
Great article to read about feeding wild animals.
On our last night at Mpaya we planned an early morning getaway. Not to be! The entire night we heard the lions in and around our campsite. It was a bleary-eyed group of travellers that eventually dared to leave the safety of their tents.Lion tracks crisscrossed our campsite. With one eye on the bush, we managed to pack up camp in record time.
Once again Mabuasehube lived up to its reputation. We will be back.
If, like us, you are a fellow eco-minded traveler and keen to explore the potential eco travel Africa, please feel free to contact us for advice and suggestions. Safe Travels
What is Responsible tourism? We all want to be the responsible Eco-traveller.
You arrive in the beautiful national park with an idyllic setting. Suddenly a cute little face appears in the form of a cuddly squirrel or cheeky hornbill, even an innocent looking monkey. They look as if they can do with a little snack. But alas a big sign screams “Do Not Feed The Animals!” Why can they be so uncaring? In short, an understanding and respect for animals behavior can unravel much of the question that is, “what is ecotourism? Read on, as we explain the method behind these precautions.
Why can’t I feed them.
The Animal world is ruled by two Natural Instincts -Dominance and Territory. This especially includes access to food. Animals have to fight to get food and to protect it. An animal will NOT surrender their food or territory without a fight. Only the weak will submit and willingly give away their food and territory. Humans handing out food creates the impression of surrender and submission. This leads to the animal becoming “dominant” and will then demand more food and also claim the territory. This, in turn, can lead to aggressive and threatening behaviour if their demands are not met.
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- Hyenas in natural environment
What is Responsible tourism? Feeding animals has severe results.
The end result frequently leads to conflict or even injuries, and in extreme situations, the authorities will have to kill the ” nuisance ” offender.
I know in our human mind feeding the hungry, and the cute animal appears charitable, but this is not how Nature works.
To lure an animal with food as bait for a good photograph is even more unacceptable.
Another misconception is that you do not actively feed the animal but leaving food unattended or accessible is just as bad or even worse than feeding. This teaches them to become cunning and destructive scavengers and thieves. Baboons can easily rip open a canvas tent to reach food.
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- Vervet Monkey in natural environment
What is Responsible tourism? Our food should not be their food.
“Easy ” food also makes animals and birds lazy feeders, and they will rather steal a sandwich than hunt for food.
Hyenas with their strong jaws can destroy kitchen equipment that contains food or leftovers and don’t forget monkeys are smart enough to open lids and even latches.
We also do not realise that human food is not part of any animal’s diet. Birds eat seeds and insects, not bread and cookies. Monkeys and baboons don’t eat marshmallows or potato crisps. Feeding them our food can lead to severe health and metabolic problems for them.
By sticking to Nature’s rules, you allow the animal to keep his territory, and we can keep to ours and then enjoy the animals in their natural world.
If you love me, dont feed me.
Written by: Johan Van Rensburg
Photos by: Love Nature Phix
Agama tented accommodation Eco Safaris is ‘rooms with a view’
It was a flower season in Namaqualand. The day of our arrival, heavy clouds rolled over the sky and were there to stay. The cold front was coming. It was our misfortune not to see the sunset down in the valley and distant mountains that all the seven tented accommodations provide. I could imagine it to be stunning vista on a clear day – Agama tented accommodation eco safaris is ‘rooms with a view’.
With the chilly, rainy weather all the guests gathered into the main house, in front of a fireplace with a glass of Red wine to get comfy. It was a good opportunity to meet other guests and to chat with owners Victor and Linda Burke about their farm. The farm has been in the family for six generations. It used to be a sheep farm in the past. Victor and Linda have made it their home and are welcoming guests to their Agama Tented Camp where Springbok and Gemsbok are now roaming the shrubby terrain, and Buffalos will be introduced.
Not just an Eco establishment in Namaqualand
What made it so special, – was the personality to the place, with Linda being busy in the kitchen and Victor, if he was not engaged in conversations with guests, was pouring drinks at the Burke’s pub. You can see and feel that the owners, Victor and Linda are the heart and soul into the farm and their eco safaris lodge
Home-cooked dinner of South African Bobotie
The weather was getting rapidly miserable, and front of the fireplaces became the most popular place to be. The family cat, – the Kat, arranged himself sitting in front of it, staring motionlessly at the flames. He could have been a furry statue if it weren’t for an occasional yawn. Orphaned meerkat appeared and claimed his place in front of the fireplace. I thought the meerkat could have as well been named MenieerKat (from Afrikaans translation it would mean something like ‘the-real-mister-cat’). Victor confirmed that the MenieerKat believes himself to be the boss of the house.
Dinner was served in a cozy setting with paraffin lamps on the tables. Linda’s home-cooked dinner offered among many side dishes, a roasted leg of lamb, traditional South African Bobotie with cinnamon sweet potatoes and freshly baked bread. Second helpings assured! Linda’s baked warm apple pie was a definite cherry on top for a scrumptious meal.
Equipped with warm blankets and hot water bottles to warm the bed we retired into our eco safaris tents. And a gas heater fortified our good night sleep.
Johan says: "Beside overall warm hospitality' You can see and feel that the owners, Victor and Linda are the heart and soul into the farm and their eco safaris lodge."
Annica says: "I would rate it definitely as an Eco accommodation and thumbs up for using creativity to give ‘old’ utensils a new life".
Your wishlist might be to stay in a Eco cottage
That is secluded, and you have full privacy. To be spacious yet welcoming.
Rustic feel but artistic with personality.
Log fireplace to keep cosy and old-fashioned bath.
Might be too much of a wishlist, but we managed to find it for you! It is ‘Die Kliphuis’ cottage in Gannaga lodge that is on top of Gannaga pass in Tankwa Karoo.
Flower season in Tankwa Karoo
We drove up on the winding gravel road of Gannaga pass that was narrow and steep some places, admiring the breathtakingly beautiful views to the distance over otherwise flat Tankwa Karoo. As we summited 1700m high pass, we saw a stone cottage amongst of Karoo bushes and wildflowers. A further down the road is the main Gannaga lodge, that is equally unique and with lots of character.
It’s not only the lodge that has a character, but it is also equally the people that give the personality to create a welcoming experience. We were greeted at the reception by a friendly and smiling face of Enrico, who told that he hails all the way from George. Enrico was always there to ensure that we were well looked after and entertained us with his jokes.
Die Kliphuis Eco cottage takes you back in memory lane
We discovered that Johann Visagie is the owner of Gannaga lodge, of which history goes back to Johann’s great-grandfather to the years of sheep farming. The Kliphuis stone cottage we stayed in, apparently, was the very first farmhouse dating back to the1800’s. ‘Die Kliphuis’ now invites visitors who look for a quiet time in privacy with an idyllic view and Eco experience. Our only regret was that we should have stayed longer.
Die Kliphuis cottage is self-catering but you can opt to eat at the main lodge, and this what we did. Back at the lodge, Johann himself appeared from the kitchen with an apron and smiling. Chatted with all the guests, served drinks from the bar, and put the apron back on as the head chef who was on leave. That is multitasking and having all under control with a big smile.
Johan with Gannaga lodge owner Johann Visagie (on the right)
Finding Vegan meals all the way in Tankwa
The menu offered something to everyone, from Karoo lamb chops, sheep head delicacy, vegetarian option and to my greatest surprise a Vegan Shepherds Pie. Finding vegan meal option offered in Tankwa Karoo was impressive, considering that even many commercial, big-city restaurants fail to do that.
What you can expect is not a fast-food but a ‘slow-food’ – that means a freshly cooked homemade hearty meal especially for you. I ordered tomato-basil soup and Vegan Shepherd Pie that I thoroughly enjoyed.
Our stay in Die Kliphuis is eco and nostalgic experience.
The Tankwa Karoo weather turned freezing that night, but the fireplace, electric blankets and warm duvets were welcoming. Water for the bath/shower was heated by *donkey. To refresh one’s memory, – donkey heater is an old-fashioned water heating system consisting of a drum of water that is heated by a fire outside the building.
Our stay in Die Kliphuis was a real eco and nostalgic experience.
Beside the stone cottage, Gannaga lodge offers a wide variety of accommodation option in the main lodge.
Johan says: Takes you back in memory lane.
Annica says: Can’t wait to go back there again. (Just have to book well in advance).
