Central Kalahari Game Reserve (CKGR), Botswana
9-day Eco Safaris Trip planner:
Central Kalahari Google Map link here.
From Johannesburg,
DAY 1 – Khama Rhino Sanctuary (7hour drive from JHB) Offers camping and self-catering chalets. Camping sites have good ablution facilities. *If you arrive early enough, take a drive around the park where you can have a good chance for rhino sightings on eco safaris.
DAY 2 and 3 – Passarge Campsite, Campsite no2. An Adequate shade under the trees and camp overlooking the distant open plane. Basic reed shower and ablution. There are 3 campsites.
DAY 4 and 5 – Piper Pan, Campsite no1. Campsites well apart for privacy. Piper no 1 where we stayed was close to the Pan and waterhole, it was also larger than No 2. In true eco safaris style, Ablution is though little further away from the camping place. (No 2 is more secluded and further away from the water-hole) The waterhole had a constant procession of birds and animals.
DAY 6 and 7 – Sunday Pan, Campsite no 3. A shady tree in the middle of the campsite, Ablutions is close by. Also a great view over the pan for perfect sunset views.
DAY 8 – On our way back we stayed over Khumaga Campsite on the Boteti river, Makgadikgadi and Nxai Pan National Park.
DAY 9 – Kwa Nokeng Lodge just before Martins Drift border post (Botswana side). / or on South Africa’s side has numerous places to stay.
Central Kalahari, Botswana
Eco Safaris Notes and travel tips:
• Stock up at Letlhakane. Fill up with Petrol and Diesel @ Rakops it is the last stop for fuel and stock-up for basic supplies.
• Just after Rakops look out for the road turning left to Matswere Gate of CKGR.
• Take your own water with you to last during your stay as there are no water facilities. I would not recommend leaving the filling of the water tanks in Rakops as the water is precious in that area for the local community. (It was heartbreaking to witness how thirsty donkeys were chased away from the fresh water points). Fill up water tanks rather in Letlhakane.
• Also, carry all your firewood and charcoal with you to CK as there is no place to stock up. Keep in mind it’s illegal to collect firewood in the park because trees and fallen branches are nature’s property..
• Letiahau and Lekhubu do not have any ablution facilities.
• Be waste-wise as you need to carry and take back all your disposables. The rule, that not only Eco safaris travellers know, ‘do not leave your trash behind’ applies.
• The same cardinal rule applies for your leftover food, do not bury it, do not leave it under the bush for animals/birds, – It will just cause unwanted problems so please take the leftovers with you. ”If you love me, don’t feed me” article HERE.
Camping in Central Kalahari
• After your stay please remember to pick up all your litter that might have accidentally fallen to the ground (bottle caps, cable ties, cigaret buts etc.) it’s never pleasant to clean up the mess that other eco safaris travelers may have left behind.
• Please, also bury your fire ash properly and do not leave it for next visitors as campsites are not serviced and we all go there for a pleasurable experience.
• On the exit, at Matswere gate you will find a big container where to dispose of all your trash after your visit, or if you were a recycle wise, you would take it with all the way home.
• We have been in Central Kalahari in October as well as April, both were excellent times, warm to hot days, during both eco safaris we had some rain as well. Winter time is good but nights can be unexpectedly cold. Try to avoid mid-summer season as it can get really hot and with the rain, the driving will be slip-sliding on muddy roads. Real chance of getting seriously stuck.
CK Bookings: Best to book through Bigfoot Tours (campsites: Piper Pan, Letiahau, Lekhubu, Kukama, Sunday Pan, Passarge Valley and Motopi.
Mud driving in Central Kalahari
Central Kalahari Part ONE and Part TWO (click only to take you there).
Later that afternoon we decided to investigate a loop that we had not been on previously.
Imagine our surprise when we found the four young males from the previous day sprawled out next to the road.
A young male decided that the Coopers on Johan’s vehicle were the coolest things he has seen in a long time! Trotting around, he was eyeing out the wheels with concentration.
Wendy spotted a fifth lion coming towards us across the pan. To witness the reaction of the males was amazing. They started to gambol around the pan like kittens. It was a female, and we watched in amazement as she first crouched in submission and soon they were greeting each other like old friends. After a session of greetings and lion standard pleasantries, the female got up and headed for the waterhole.
What a privilege to witness this. I again realised why we visit these remote places on our eco tours in Africa .
We followed the lions to the waterhole as Johan and Annica got engrossed in preparing a delicious meal of duck and cherry pie. If you should think that they are camp food magicians you are quite right. Camp food will never be the same again after travelling with the Van Rensburgs.
We packed up camp early the next morning and set off for Sunday pan for our last three days in the park. Along the route, we came across a fantastic spectacle on our eco tours in Africa. Bushes that a few days ago looked utterly lifeless were now covered in white blooming flowers. The rain of two days ago had worked its magic.
A while later we came across a flock of vultures at a kill. It was further from the roadside and we were not able to see what the ‘kill was but it must have been large as there were at least 40 – 50 vultures squabbling over the carcass.
Great was our surprise when we spotted a wild dog skulking around, no doubt hoping to scavenge a few scraps. It was odd though to see a loner of a wild dog.
We arrived at our Sunday Pan campsite late afternoon and after setting up the camp, we soaked in peaceful nature, until it was time to start supper. On the menu were Kassler chops served with plums and potato bake.
Next day on our eco tours in Africa we were up early for a game drive. At the Sunday Pan waterhole, we found three lions. A beautiful male and female and a very thin emaciated female. She looked as if on deaths door.We decided to go and look for the leopard of Leopard Pan, but all we found was a stream of vehicles. It was just before the Easter weekend, and we were glad that for a past week and a half we had the park to ourselves.
With no leopard found, we headed back to camp to chill for the rest of the day.
Supper was grilled deboned leg of lamb, sweet potatoes and potbread followed by grilled peaches with cinnamon custard and ice cream. We rolled into bed by 21:00.
Psalm 76. Where there is peace, He is there.
At night it started to rain heavily, and we awoke to dark skies and a sodden campsite. We attempted went for a game drive, but the heavy rain forced us back to the campsite. The day was spent reading and sleeping to the tumbling sound of water.
At 5 am we were up to pack our trailers with camp-gear and head for home. Enough has been said on the forum about the chaos after the rain, so I am not going to bore you with another rain and mud story. What I can say is that we left CKGR just in time. It took us only five and a half hours to drive the 107 km from our camp to the tar road. From later reports on our eco tours in Africa, I gather that we came off lightly.
Wendy and I can’t ever adequately express the gratitude in our hearts for amazing friends and an awesome God who made it possible for us to experience the Central Kalahari.
We will be back!
Adventure 4×4 offroad travel to Central Kalahari, Botswana.
If you missed the part ONE, here is the link.
After setting up camp, Wendy and I decided to drive to Piper Pan. Scarcely 300 meters from our campsite we found a pride of lions right next to the road. It is moments like this that makes this place so unique. Four females and four cubs were sprawled out under the smallest piece of shrub shade.
We looked around for males but could not spot them and decided to drive on to the waterhole as we realised that they were not going anywhere till late afternoon.
Piper Pan waterhole is an absolute delight.
Eventually, the heat drove us back to camp where we relaxed until late afternoon. After a refreshing shower, we decided to go and check up on the lionesses again. They were still in the same spot although more active than earlier in the day. We were convinced that there must be males somewhere in the vicinity and scanned the surrounding bushes up and down the road. Then we saw them, two beautiful Black-maned Kalahari lions in the prime of life, and they were heading towards us. Wendy grabbed the radio and called Johan and Annica who were still at the campsite. By the time they joined us the males were quite close to us.
Slowly, in no hurry, the first male ambled towards the females. Close to us he lay down and surveyed the scene. Then the second male decided to join him.
Rumbling stomachs eventually dictated that we return back to the campsite for another gastronomical delight. It is quite an eerie feeling to prepare the supper knowing ten lions are lying only a couple of hundred meters away from us.
I must admit that as it got darker, the distance to the longdrop seemed to have increased!
We were in bed by nine only to be woken by the lions roaring. It sounded as if they were right outside our tents. Then a little striped mouse decided that there must be all sorts of delicacies inside the trailer. Up and down the tent it scampered looking for a hole. Mercifully a spotted eagle owl decided that our tent was an excellent vantage point and the mouse realised that maybe he should look elsewhere for a meal.
We awoke to a beautiful sunrise and the promise of another day filled with excitement. After breakfast, we drove to the waterhole to look out for the lions, but they were out of sight. Leaving the waterhole, we took a drive around Piper Pan and came across four young male lions. Although it was still early, the lions were already in sleep mode. We waited patiently for maybe a move for a photo if not an action but eventually returned to the campsite.
On the way, we spotted one of the big males lying under a tree no more than 100m from our campsite. The big question was, where were the other nine? Johan and I started to build an oxtail potjie. The potjie and the cooks shared an excellent Malbec from Wellington while Annica prepared a mozzarella, tomato and basil salad, drizzled with olive oil and balsamic reduction. Absolutely delicious. Both, the food and wine.
Late in the evening, when Johan and Annica returned from a shower, they were convinced they heard the lions VERY close. Of course, the close proximity of 10 lions had nothing to do with my decision to rather having a foot bath in the comfort of our trailer tent.
Psalm 92: “We proclaim your love in the morning and your faithfulness at night.”
We drove to Piper2 to see what the campsite was like and maybe spot “our” lions. And decided unanimously that Piper1 is by far the better campsite. Wendy spotted a flock of sandgrouse heading for the waterhole, and we set off hoping to see them drinking. Luckily we arrived at the waterhole just in time to witness the show. Hundreds of Burchell’s sandgrouse flocked around the waterhole, flying in to rush into the water for a few seconds before flying back to their chicks.
By 11:30 the temperature was in the high 30’s, but we could see a storm brewing. By lunchtime a storm of note hit us. We were literally hanging onto the tent poles and got thoroughly soaked within seconds. Mercifully the storm did not last long but cooled the weather down. But little did we realise that this was only a small taste of what was to come.
The waterhole drew us like a magnet, and it was not long before Wendy and I were back there observing the constant coming and goings of birds and animals.
Large flocks of guineafowl started running around, making an almighty racket. We then saw the cause of all the consternation. Two Lanner falcons were trying to catch themselves a meal, but the guineafowl was too big to bring down. Four jackals decided to join in, and for a while, it was utter pandemonium. The combined aerial and ground attack sent the birds fluttering into whatever shelter they could find. Soon every bush was festooned with a flock of chattering – complaining fowls.
… follow the story to Part THREE
Having read Cry of the Kalahari many years ago, I longed to visit CKGR, but it was always just an unfulfilled dream. However, one thing I have learned. There are talkers and doers.
So eventually I decided that it is now or never and made a booking for a year in advance.. As we started our final preparations fate tried to throw a spanner in the works. A severe storm left us knee-deep in water as our house was flooded just before the long-awaited trip to Central Kalahari. Our camping gear and most of our furniture was destroyed in flood. We reluctantly decided to inform our travelling companions Johan and Annica Van Rensburg that they would have to either go alone to the trip or find someone to take our place. Nothing doing, Johan offered us the use of a fully kitted off-road trailer, and Annica would plan menus and stock up with the necessary foodstuff.
A last-minute trip to Walter’s to do a quick inspection of the Landy and we were ready to roll. Early Saturday morning, we were on the road! Wendy and I could hardly believe that we were on our way to CKGR. We hit the highway north to the sound of Willie Nelson’s “On the Road Again”. Despite all odds and thanks to amazing and caring friends, our dream was coming true. We were going to experience ‘the cry of the Kalahari’ for ourselves. Ahead of us lay glorious days in the wild. This would be our fourth trip together having previously travelled to Caprivi, Gonarezhou and Mabuasehub. A shared love for the wild places, good food and good wine as well as no hang-ups have served us well on our previous trips, and this trip would not be any different.
-
- Central Kalahari -Passage campsite
-
- Beautiful landscape of Central Kalahari
-
- Central Kalahari camping
Day 2: After some last minute shopping at Lethoakane, we headed for Rakops. At the turnoff, to CKGR we stopped for lunch and also to deflate tyres in anticipation of the sandy road ahead. By now the thermometer was heading for 40c! Johan took the lead and Wendy and I following well behind them. Landies are not known for the dustproofing!
But the ‘Odds’ were to continue! – I noticed a trail of water on the road ahead of us and tried to contact Johan by radio. Eventually, we managed to alert them, and after the quick inspection, we discovered that virtually all the fresh water in their trailers’ water tank had leaked out. Johan managed to plug the leaking tap and decided that we would refill the water tank at Matswere gate. Now with all the delays and slight miscalculation as to the distance to our campsite, we only arrived at our Passage no 2 campsite, at 19:00. Not the ideal after a long day’s drive and setting up camp in the dark is also not pleasant. After one of Annica’s and Johan’s delicious suppers and a glass of red wine, we were ready for bed.
Day 3: We woke up to a beautiful sunrise with jackal calling in the distance and birds singing in the trees. Springbok, gemsbok and wildebeest dotted the pan in front of us. Later that afternoon we set out for a game drive. It was hellish hot, and there was not much to see. Back at the camp, Johan and Annica started dinner. Fillet steak and blackened bananas; pot bread served with fig preserve and Nutella was washed down with a decent Cabernet Franc. Gluten-free cake and ice-cream for dessert and it was time for bed.
Thought for the day: Blessed be the name of the Lord, whether in the desert place or where streams of abundance flow.
-
- Bat-eared Fox
-
- Kalahari Lion
-
- Lion crossing
Day 4: We were up early and set off for a morning drive. What a delight! Highlights of the drive were three sightings of African wildcat, lion, jackal and bat-eared foxes. Wendy was especially thrilled with the bat-eared fox sightings. Another thrill of the day was when we witnessed an aerial bombardment of a female wildcat and kitten by two pale chanting goshawks. Unfortunately too far and too quick for photos. What a sight! Back at the camp, Annica treated us to a light lunch of fresh fig slices wrapped in Parma ham, ice-cold melon and cheese rounds – delish!
We spent a quite of the afternoon reading and dozing. Soaking up the peace and quiet. Late afternoon sundowners were served and then it was Wendy’s and my turn to prepare a supper of Boerewors bredie, pap with evaporated milk and butter and halved gem squash. The gem squash was dotted with nutmeg and cinnamon butter, wrapped in foil and placed in the fire. After a gall or two of the Cape’s finest, the food was ready. Who said camp food must be boring?
Thought for the day: Be jubilant and rejoice in the Lord for His goodness and His mercies.
-
- Kalahari Sunset
-
- Central Kalahari camping
-
- view over the waterhole
Day 5: The day started with the most beautiful sunrise only the Master painter could have designed. After coffee and rusks, we packed up camp and headed for Piper Pan. On the way, we saw herds of springbok. About 1km out of the camp, we saw a vulture landing in the grass. We stopped to id the vulture and then saw that the tree close to the dune was covered in vultures. They were obviously gathering around a kill. Suddenly three male lions appeared from behind a clump of bushes. As we were watching, they started walking towards us across the plain and crossed the road in front of us. It felt like a magical moment orchestrated just for us!
The rest of the trip was a very hot (40c), and 140km of very bumpy road with little game to see. Late afternoon we arrived at Piper no 1 camp, our home for the next three days. After a snack of Provitas with mascarpone and chilli sauce, cold fillet, tea and Lager, we settled down to pitch camp.
But wait! – Part TWO of Central Kalahari adventure is coming next!
Written by Heinrich Kühne