Central Kalahari Game Reserve (CKGR), Botswana
9-day Eco Safaris Trip planner:
Central Kalahari Google Map link here.
From Johannesburg,
DAY 1 – Khama Rhino Sanctuary (7hour drive from JHB) Offers camping and self-catering chalets. Camping sites have good ablution facilities. *If you arrive early enough, take a drive around the park where you can have a good chance for rhino sightings on eco safaris.
DAY 2 and 3 – Passarge Campsite, Campsite no2. An Adequate shade under the trees and camp overlooking the distant open plane. Basic reed shower and ablution. There are 3 campsites.
DAY 4 and 5 – Piper Pan, Campsite no1. Campsites well apart for privacy. Piper no 1 where we stayed was close to the Pan and waterhole, it was also larger than No 2. In true eco safaris style, Ablution is though little further away from the camping place. (No 2 is more secluded and further away from the water-hole) The waterhole had a constant procession of birds and animals.
DAY 6 and 7 – Sunday Pan, Campsite no 3. A shady tree in the middle of the campsite, Ablutions is close by. Also a great view over the pan for perfect sunset views.
DAY 8 – On our way back we stayed over Khumaga Campsite on the Boteti river, Makgadikgadi and Nxai Pan National Park.
DAY 9 – Kwa Nokeng Lodge just before Martins Drift border post (Botswana side). / or on South Africa’s side has numerous places to stay.
Central Kalahari, Botswana
Eco Safaris Notes and travel tips:
• Stock up at Letlhakane. Fill up with Petrol and Diesel @ Rakops it is the last stop for fuel and stock-up for basic supplies.
• Just after Rakops look out for the road turning left to Matswere Gate of CKGR.
• Take your own water with you to last during your stay as there are no water facilities. I would not recommend leaving the filling of the water tanks in Rakops as the water is precious in that area for the local community. (It was heartbreaking to witness how thirsty donkeys were chased away from the fresh water points). Fill up water tanks rather in Letlhakane.
• Also, carry all your firewood and charcoal with you to CK as there is no place to stock up. Keep in mind it’s illegal to collect firewood in the park because trees and fallen branches are nature’s property..
• Letiahau and Lekhubu do not have any ablution facilities.
• Be waste-wise as you need to carry and take back all your disposables. The rule, that not only Eco safaris travellers know, ‘do not leave your trash behind’ applies.
• The same cardinal rule applies for your leftover food, do not bury it, do not leave it under the bush for animals/birds, – It will just cause unwanted problems so please take the leftovers with you. ”If you love me, don’t feed me” article HERE.
Camping in Central Kalahari
• After your stay please remember to pick up all your litter that might have accidentally fallen to the ground (bottle caps, cable ties, cigaret buts etc.) it’s never pleasant to clean up the mess that other eco safaris travelers may have left behind.
• Please, also bury your fire ash properly and do not leave it for next visitors as campsites are not serviced and we all go there for a pleasurable experience.
• On the exit, at Matswere gate you will find a big container where to dispose of all your trash after your visit, or if you were a recycle wise, you would take it with all the way home.
• We have been in Central Kalahari in October as well as April, both were excellent times, warm to hot days, during both eco safaris we had some rain as well. Winter time is good but nights can be unexpectedly cold. Try to avoid mid-summer season as it can get really hot and with the rain, the driving will be slip-sliding on muddy roads. Real chance of getting seriously stuck.
CK Bookings: Best to book through Bigfoot Tours (campsites: Piper Pan, Letiahau, Lekhubu, Kukama, Sunday Pan, Passarge Valley and Motopi.
Mud driving in Central Kalahari
Central Kalahari Part ONE and Part TWO (click only to take you there).
Later that afternoon we decided to investigate a loop that we had not been on previously.
Imagine our surprise when we found the four young males from the previous day sprawled out next to the road.
A young male decided that the Coopers on Johan’s vehicle were the coolest things he has seen in a long time! Trotting around, he was eyeing out the wheels with concentration.
Wendy spotted a fifth lion coming towards us across the pan. To witness the reaction of the males was amazing. They started to gambol around the pan like kittens. It was a female, and we watched in amazement as she first crouched in submission and soon they were greeting each other like old friends. After a session of greetings and lion standard pleasantries, the female got up and headed for the waterhole.
What a privilege to witness this. I again realised why we visit these remote places on our eco tours in Africa .
We followed the lions to the waterhole as Johan and Annica got engrossed in preparing a delicious meal of duck and cherry pie. If you should think that they are camp food magicians you are quite right. Camp food will never be the same again after travelling with the Van Rensburgs.
We packed up camp early the next morning and set off for Sunday pan for our last three days in the park. Along the route, we came across a fantastic spectacle on our eco tours in Africa. Bushes that a few days ago looked utterly lifeless were now covered in white blooming flowers. The rain of two days ago had worked its magic.
A while later we came across a flock of vultures at a kill. It was further from the roadside and we were not able to see what the ‘kill was but it must have been large as there were at least 40 – 50 vultures squabbling over the carcass.
Great was our surprise when we spotted a wild dog skulking around, no doubt hoping to scavenge a few scraps. It was odd though to see a loner of a wild dog.
We arrived at our Sunday Pan campsite late afternoon and after setting up the camp, we soaked in peaceful nature, until it was time to start supper. On the menu were Kassler chops served with plums and potato bake.
Next day on our eco tours in Africa we were up early for a game drive. At the Sunday Pan waterhole, we found three lions. A beautiful male and female and a very thin emaciated female. She looked as if on deaths door.We decided to go and look for the leopard of Leopard Pan, but all we found was a stream of vehicles. It was just before the Easter weekend, and we were glad that for a past week and a half we had the park to ourselves.
With no leopard found, we headed back to camp to chill for the rest of the day.
Supper was grilled deboned leg of lamb, sweet potatoes and potbread followed by grilled peaches with cinnamon custard and ice cream. We rolled into bed by 21:00.
Psalm 76. Where there is peace, He is there.
At night it started to rain heavily, and we awoke to dark skies and a sodden campsite. We attempted went for a game drive, but the heavy rain forced us back to the campsite. The day was spent reading and sleeping to the tumbling sound of water.
At 5 am we were up to pack our trailers with camp-gear and head for home. Enough has been said on the forum about the chaos after the rain, so I am not going to bore you with another rain and mud story. What I can say is that we left CKGR just in time. It took us only five and a half hours to drive the 107 km from our camp to the tar road. From later reports on our eco tours in Africa, I gather that we came off lightly.
Wendy and I can’t ever adequately express the gratitude in our hearts for amazing friends and an awesome God who made it possible for us to experience the Central Kalahari.
We will be back!