Central Kalahari Game Reserve (CKGR), Botswana
9-day Eco Safaris Trip planner:
Central Kalahari Google Map link here.
From Johannesburg,
DAY 1 – Khama Rhino Sanctuary (7hour drive from JHB) Offers camping and self-catering chalets. Camping sites have good ablution facilities. *If you arrive early enough, take a drive around the park where you can have a good chance for rhino sightings on eco safaris.
DAY 2 and 3 – Passarge Campsite, Campsite no2. An Adequate shade under the trees and camp overlooking the distant open plane. Basic reed shower and ablution. There are 3 campsites.
DAY 4 and 5 – Piper Pan, Campsite no1. Campsites well apart for privacy. Piper no 1 where we stayed was close to the Pan and waterhole, it was also larger than No 2. In true eco safaris style, Ablution is though little further away from the camping place. (No 2 is more secluded and further away from the water-hole) The waterhole had a constant procession of birds and animals.
DAY 6 and 7 – Sunday Pan, Campsite no 3. A shady tree in the middle of the campsite, Ablutions is close by. Also a great view over the pan for perfect sunset views.
DAY 8 – On our way back we stayed over Khumaga Campsite on the Boteti river, Makgadikgadi and Nxai Pan National Park.
DAY 9 – Kwa Nokeng Lodge just before Martins Drift border post (Botswana side). / or on South Africa’s side has numerous places to stay.
Eco Safaris Notes and travel tips:
• Stock up at Letlhakane. Fill up with Petrol and Diesel @ Rakops it is the last stop for fuel and stock-up for basic supplies.
• Just after Rakops look out for the road turning left to Matswere Gate of CKGR.
• Take your own water with you to last during your stay as there are no water facilities. I would not recommend leaving the filling of the water tanks in Rakops as the water is precious in that area for the local community. (It was heartbreaking to witness how thirsty donkeys were chased away from the fresh water points). Fill up water tanks rather in Letlhakane.
• Also, carry all your firewood and charcoal with you to CK as there is no place to stock up. Keep in mind it’s illegal to collect firewood in the park because trees and fallen branches are nature’s property..
• Letiahau and Lekhubu do not have any ablution facilities.
• Be waste-wise as you need to carry and take back all your disposables. The rule, that not only Eco safaris travellers know, ‘do not leave your trash behind’ applies.
• The same cardinal rule applies for your leftover food, do not bury it, do not leave it under the bush for animals/birds, – It will just cause unwanted problems so please take the leftovers with you. ”If you love me, don’t feed me” article HERE.
• After your stay please remember to pick up all your litter that might have accidentally fallen to the ground (bottle caps, cable ties, cigaret buts etc.) it’s never pleasant to clean up the mess that other eco safaris travelers may have left behind.
• Please, also bury your fire ash properly and do not leave it for next visitors as campsites are not serviced and we all go there for a pleasurable experience.
• On the exit, at Matswere gate you will find a big container where to dispose of all your trash after your visit, or if you were a recycle wise, you would take it with all the way home.
• We have been in Central Kalahari in October as well as April, both were excellent times, warm to hot days, during both eco safaris we had some rain as well. Winter time is good but nights can be unexpectedly cold. Try to avoid mid-summer season as it can get really hot and with the rain, the driving will be slip-sliding on muddy roads. Real chance of getting seriously stuck.
CK Bookings: Best to book through Bigfoot Tours (campsites: Piper Pan, Letiahau, Lekhubu, Kukama, Sunday Pan, Passarge Valley and Motopi.
Having read Cry of the Kalahari many years ago, I longed to visit CKGR, but it was always just an unfulfilled dream. However, one thing I have learned. There are talkers and doers.
So eventually I decided that it is now or never and made a booking for a year in advance.. As we started our final preparations fate tried to throw a spanner in the works. A severe storm left us knee-deep in water as our house was flooded just before the long-awaited trip to Central Kalahari. Our camping gear and most of our furniture was destroyed in flood. We reluctantly decided to inform our travelling companions Johan and Annica Van Rensburg that they would have to either go alone to the trip or find someone to take our place. Nothing doing, Johan offered us the use of a fully kitted off-road trailer, and Annica would plan menus and stock up with the necessary foodstuff.
A last-minute trip to Walter’s to do a quick inspection of the Landy and we were ready to roll. Early Saturday morning, we were on the road! Wendy and I could hardly believe that we were on our way to CKGR. We hit the highway north to the sound of Willie Nelson’s “On the Road Again”. Despite all odds and thanks to amazing and caring friends, our dream was coming true. We were going to experience ‘the cry of the Kalahari’ for ourselves. Ahead of us lay glorious days in the wild. This would be our fourth trip together having previously travelled to Caprivi, Gonarezhou and Mabuasehub. A shared love for the wild places, good food and good wine as well as no hang-ups have served us well on our previous trips, and this trip would not be any different.
Day 2: After some last minute shopping at Lethoakane, we headed for Rakops. At the turnoff, to CKGR we stopped for lunch and also to deflate tyres in anticipation of the sandy road ahead. By now the thermometer was heading for 40c! Johan took the lead and Wendy and I following well behind them. Landies are not known for the dustproofing!
But the ‘Odds’ were to continue! – I noticed a trail of water on the road ahead of us and tried to contact Johan by radio. Eventually, we managed to alert them, and after the quick inspection, we discovered that virtually all the fresh water in their trailers’ water tank had leaked out. Johan managed to plug the leaking tap and decided that we would refill the water tank at Matswere gate. Now with all the delays and slight miscalculation as to the distance to our campsite, we only arrived at our Passage no 2 campsite, at 19:00. Not the ideal after a long day’s drive and setting up camp in the dark is also not pleasant. After one of Annica’s and Johan’s delicious suppers and a glass of red wine, we were ready for bed.
Day 3: We woke up to a beautiful sunrise with jackal calling in the distance and birds singing in the trees. Springbok, gemsbok and wildebeest dotted the pan in front of us. Later that afternoon we set out for a game drive. It was hellish hot, and there was not much to see. Back at the camp, Johan and Annica started dinner. Fillet steak and blackened bananas; pot bread served with fig preserve and Nutella was washed down with a decent Cabernet Franc. Gluten-free cake and ice-cream for dessert and it was time for bed.
Thought for the day: Blessed be the name of the Lord, whether in the desert place or where streams of abundance flow.
Day 4: We were up early and set off for a morning drive. What a delight! Highlights of the drive were three sightings of African wildcat, lion, jackal and bat-eared foxes. Wendy was especially thrilled with the bat-eared fox sightings. Another thrill of the day was when we witnessed an aerial bombardment of a female wildcat and kitten by two pale chanting goshawks. Unfortunately too far and too quick for photos. What a sight! Back at the camp, Annica treated us to a light lunch of fresh fig slices wrapped in Parma ham, ice-cold melon and cheese rounds – delish!
We spent a quite of the afternoon reading and dozing. Soaking up the peace and quiet. Late afternoon sundowners were served and then it was Wendy’s and my turn to prepare a supper of Boerewors bredie, pap with evaporated milk and butter and halved gem squash. The gem squash was dotted with nutmeg and cinnamon butter, wrapped in foil and placed in the fire. After a gall or two of the Cape’s finest, the food was ready. Who said camp food must be boring?
Thought for the day: Be jubilant and rejoice in the Lord for His goodness and His mercies.
Day 5: The day started with the most beautiful sunrise only the Master painter could have designed. After coffee and rusks, we packed up camp and headed for Piper Pan. On the way, we saw herds of springbok. About 1km out of the camp, we saw a vulture landing in the grass. We stopped to id the vulture and then saw that the tree close to the dune was covered in vultures. They were obviously gathering around a kill. Suddenly three male lions appeared from behind a clump of bushes. As we were watching, they started walking towards us across the plain and crossed the road in front of us. It felt like a magical moment orchestrated just for us!
The rest of the trip was a very hot (40c), and 140km of very bumpy road with little game to see. Late afternoon we arrived at Piper no 1 camp, our home for the next three days. After a snack of Provitas with mascarpone and chilli sauce, cold fillet, tea and Lager, we settled down to pitch camp.
But wait! – Part TWO of Central Kalahari adventure is coming next!
Written by Heinrich Kühne