Having read Cry of the Kalahari many years ago, I longed to visit CKGR, but it was always just an unfulfilled dream. However, one thing I have learned. There are talkers and doers.
So eventually I decided that it is now or never and made a booking for a year in advance.. As we started our final preparations fate tried to throw a spanner in the works. A severe storm left us knee-deep in water as our house was flooded just before the long-awaited trip to Central Kalahari. Our camping gear and most of our furniture was destroyed in flood. We reluctantly decided to inform our travelling companions Johan and Annica Van Rensburg that they would have to either go alone to the trip or find someone to take our place. Nothing doing, Johan offered us the use of a fully kitted off-road trailer, and Annica would plan menus and stock up with the necessary foodstuff.
A last-minute trip to Walter’s to do a quick inspection of the Landy and we were ready to roll. Early Saturday morning, we were on the road! Wendy and I could hardly believe that we were on our way to CKGR. We hit the highway north to the sound of Willie Nelson’s “On the Road Again”. Despite all odds and thanks to amazing and caring friends, our dream was coming true. We were going to experience ‘the cry of the Kalahari’ for ourselves. Ahead of us lay glorious days in the wild. This would be our fourth trip together having previously travelled to Caprivi, Gonarezhou and Mabuasehub. A shared love for the wild places, good food and good wine as well as no hang-ups have served us well on our previous trips, and this trip would not be any different.
Day 2: After some last minute shopping at Lethoakane, we headed for Rakops. At the turnoff, to CKGR we stopped for lunch and also to deflate tyres in anticipation of the sandy road ahead. By now the thermometer was heading for 40c! Johan took the lead and Wendy and I following well behind them. Landies are not known for the dustproofing!
But the ‘Odds’ were to continue! – I noticed a trail of water on the road ahead of us and tried to contact Johan by radio. Eventually, we managed to alert them, and after the quick inspection, we discovered that virtually all the fresh water in their trailers’ water tank had leaked out. Johan managed to plug the leaking tap and decided that we would refill the water tank at Matswere gate. Now with all the delays and slight miscalculation as to the distance to our campsite, we only arrived at our Passage no 2 campsite, at 19:00. Not the ideal after a long day’s drive and setting up camp in the dark is also not pleasant. After one of Annica’s and Johan’s delicious suppers and a glass of red wine, we were ready for bed.
Day 3: We woke up to a beautiful sunrise with jackal calling in the distance and birds singing in the trees. Springbok, gemsbok and wildebeest dotted the pan in front of us. Later that afternoon we set out for a game drive. It was hellish hot, and there was not much to see. Back at the camp, Johan and Annica started dinner. Fillet steak and blackened bananas; pot bread served with fig preserve and Nutella was washed down with a decent Cabernet Franc. Gluten-free cake and ice-cream for dessert and it was time for bed.
Thought for the day: Blessed be the name of the Lord, whether in the desert place or where streams of abundance flow.
Day 4: We were up early and set off for a morning drive. What a delight! Highlights of the drive were three sightings of African wildcat, lion, jackal and bat-eared foxes. Wendy was especially thrilled with the bat-eared fox sightings. Another thrill of the day was when we witnessed an aerial bombardment of a female wildcat and kitten by two pale chanting goshawks. Unfortunately too far and too quick for photos. What a sight! Back at the camp, Annica treated us to a light lunch of fresh fig slices wrapped in Parma ham, ice-cold melon and cheese rounds – delish!
We spent a quite of the afternoon reading and dozing. Soaking up the peace and quiet. Late afternoon sundowners were served and then it was Wendy’s and my turn to prepare a supper of Boerewors bredie, pap with evaporated milk and butter and halved gem squash. The gem squash was dotted with nutmeg and cinnamon butter, wrapped in foil and placed in the fire. After a gall or two of the Cape’s finest, the food was ready. Who said camp food must be boring?
Thought for the day: Be jubilant and rejoice in the Lord for His goodness and His mercies.
Day 5: The day started with the most beautiful sunrise only the Master painter could have designed. After coffee and rusks, we packed up camp and headed for Piper Pan. On the way, we saw herds of springbok. About 1km out of the camp, we saw a vulture landing in the grass. We stopped to id the vulture and then saw that the tree close to the dune was covered in vultures. They were obviously gathering around a kill. Suddenly three male lions appeared from behind a clump of bushes. As we were watching, they started walking towards us across the plain and crossed the road in front of us. It felt like a magical moment orchestrated just for us!
The rest of the trip was a very hot (40c), and 140km of very bumpy road with little game to see. Late afternoon we arrived at Piper no 1 camp, our home for the next three days. After a snack of Provitas with mascarpone and chilli sauce, cold fillet, tea and Lager, we settled down to pitch camp.
But wait! – Part TWO of Central Kalahari adventure is coming next!
Written by Heinrich Kühne