Adventure 4×4 offroad travel to Central Kalahari, Botswana.
If you missed the part ONE, here is the link.
After setting up camp, Wendy and I decided to drive to Piper Pan. Scarcely 300 meters from our campsite we found a pride of lions right next to the road. It is moments like this that makes this place so unique. Four females and four cubs were sprawled out under the smallest piece of shrub shade.
We looked around for males but could not spot them and decided to drive on to the waterhole as we realised that they were not going anywhere till late afternoon.
Piper Pan waterhole is an absolute delight.
Eventually, the heat drove us back to camp where we relaxed until late afternoon. After a refreshing shower, we decided to go and check up on the lionesses again. They were still in the same spot although more active than earlier in the day. We were convinced that there must be males somewhere in the vicinity and scanned the surrounding bushes up and down the road. Then we saw them, two beautiful Black-maned Kalahari lions in the prime of life, and they were heading towards us. Wendy grabbed the radio and called Johan and Annica who were still at the campsite. By the time they joined us the males were quite close to us.
Slowly, in no hurry, the first male ambled towards the females. Close to us he lay down and surveyed the scene. Then the second male decided to join him.
Rumbling stomachs eventually dictated that we return back to the campsite for another gastronomical delight. It is quite an eerie feeling to prepare the supper knowing ten lions are lying only a couple of hundred meters away from us.
I must admit that as it got darker, the distance to the longdrop seemed to have increased!
We were in bed by nine only to be woken by the lions roaring. It sounded as if they were right outside our tents. Then a little striped mouse decided that there must be all sorts of delicacies inside the trailer. Up and down the tent it scampered looking for a hole. Mercifully a spotted eagle owl decided that our tent was an excellent vantage point and the mouse realised that maybe he should look elsewhere for a meal.
We awoke to a beautiful sunrise and the promise of another day filled with excitement. After breakfast, we drove to the waterhole to look out for the lions, but they were out of sight. Leaving the waterhole, we took a drive around Piper Pan and came across four young male lions. Although it was still early, the lions were already in sleep mode. We waited patiently for maybe a move for a photo if not an action but eventually returned to the campsite.
On the way, we spotted one of the big males lying under a tree no more than 100m from our campsite. The big question was, where were the other nine? Johan and I started to build an oxtail potjie. The potjie and the cooks shared an excellent Malbec from Wellington while Annica prepared a mozzarella, tomato and basil salad, drizzled with olive oil and balsamic reduction. Absolutely delicious. Both, the food and wine.
Late in the evening, when Johan and Annica returned from a shower, they were convinced they heard the lions VERY close. Of course, the close proximity of 10 lions had nothing to do with my decision to rather having a foot bath in the comfort of our trailer tent.
Psalm 92: “We proclaim your love in the morning and your faithfulness at night.”
We drove to Piper2 to see what the campsite was like and maybe spot “our” lions. And decided unanimously that Piper1 is by far the better campsite. Wendy spotted a flock of sandgrouse heading for the waterhole, and we set off hoping to see them drinking. Luckily we arrived at the waterhole just in time to witness the show. Hundreds of Burchell’s sandgrouse flocked around the waterhole, flying in to rush into the water for a few seconds before flying back to their chicks.
By 11:30 the temperature was in the high 30’s, but we could see a storm brewing. By lunchtime a storm of note hit us. We were literally hanging onto the tent poles and got thoroughly soaked within seconds. Mercifully the storm did not last long but cooled the weather down. But little did we realise that this was only a small taste of what was to come.
The waterhole drew us like a magnet, and it was not long before Wendy and I were back there observing the constant coming and goings of birds and animals.
Large flocks of guineafowl started running around, making an almighty racket. We then saw the cause of all the consternation. Two Lanner falcons were trying to catch themselves a meal, but the guineafowl was too big to bring down. Four jackals decided to join in, and for a while, it was utter pandemonium. The combined aerial and ground attack sent the birds fluttering into whatever shelter they could find. Soon every bush was festooned with a flock of chattering – complaining fowls.
… follow the story to Part THREE